Puggling: Adventures in Lisbon

Lisbon at dusk

Lisbon is an amazing city with loads of history and incredible sights. Ancient Lisbon was originally built by native peoples on two hills overlooking a sheltered bay leading the Tagus River out to the Atlantic. Lisbon became a trading port with the Phoenicians and Greeks and it Greek it was known as Olissipo. Later, in Roman times, Lisbon was part of the Carthaginian empire and after the defeat of Hannibal in the Punic Wars, the Iberian Peninsula became a Roman Territory. After the fall of Rome, the Iberian Peninsula was invaded by Germanic tribes and controlled Lisbon until the Moors invaded in 711 from North Africa. In 1147, the Moors were expelled from Lisbon and it was returned to Christian rule. In the Middle Ages, Portugal began to explore and in the 15th, 16th and 17th centuries Lisbon was a major center for the Age of Discovery expeditions. As a premier nautical power and pioneer in the world Portugal and Lisbon were the beneficiaries of this exploration and much of Lisbon's art and architecture reflects this golden age of the Renaissance.

Baixa

Rua Augusta looking onto the Praça do Commercio

Throughout its history, Lisbon grew outward from into many different districts, the oldest of which is the district of Baixa, which means "low area," situated in between the two original hills. The tour of the Baixa district begins with Lisbon's main walking avenue, Rua Augusta. It is a wide, rolling avenue with street vendors selling various items from sunglasses to leather to flowers and it directs foot traffic into the Praça do Commercio. The buildings on this street are young for Lisbon, some only about 200 years old. Along with shops and a few restaurants there are apartments and hostels along this street and one of the best is Traveller's House.

King Jose I (horse's name unknown)

Adjoining Rua Augusta is the Praça do Commercio, a grand square overlooking the bay. The main tourist office of Lisbon is located here in the square and Lisboa Cards can be purchased for transportation and discounts in some shops. This square was the home of the royal palace until the Great Lisbon Earthquake of 1755 destroyed it. In the middle of the square is a statue of King Jose I measuring 14 meters tall. The king is decked out in his full emperor's mantle and he is looking out towards the sea. Currently there are plans to renovate the square to make it more pedestrian friendly and place an Age of Discovery museum there.

Santa Justa Elevator off of Rua Augusta

Walking back north along Rua Augusta, there is the Santa Justa Elevator which has been compared to the Eiffel Tower and is built in a similar steel frame style. In fact, it was designed by Raoul de Mesnier du Ponsard, an apprentice of Gustave Eiffel. This elevator connects Baixa, the lowest point in the city, to Bairro Alto, the highest. Originally, this elevator was powered by steam and it rises 45 meters into the air. Today, tourists can climb a spiral staircase and from the top of the tower they are rewarded with spectacular views of Lisbon and the bay.

Alfama

San Francisco's got nothing on Lisbon

From Baixa, taking Tram Number 37 east up one of the two hills Lisbon is built on, we arrive in the next district of Lisbon, Alfama. This area was originally settled by the Romans and Visigoths and the name Alfama comes from the Arabic spoken by the Moors, alhama, which refers to the hot springs in area. In the 15th century it was an important Jewish quarter. Alfama is built on dense bedrock and therefore was fortunate enough to survive the Great Lisbon Earthquake in 1755 and still maintains its medieval character. Many of the residents in the Alfama are older and grew up in the area which gives it a great feel of community. There are small cafes where the traditional folk music, fado, is still sung with enthusiasm. From narrow alleyways to numerous churches, Alfama is a very interesting area.

Sé de Lisboa

While still riding the 37 tram, the Lisbon Cathedral (Sé de Lisboa) appears immediately in front of the train. Built on top of an old mosque, one of the oldest buildings in Lisbon dates from 1150. This cathedral more resembles a medieval fortress, but inside it is Romanesque and sheds any impression of the militaristic facade. In the cloisters, which date to the 14th century, excavations discovered Roman and Visigoth remains as well as part of the old wall of the mosque which once stood here.

Man, look at those crenellations!

From the top of Lisbon

Can you spot the lion?

Continuing up the hill (either on the tram or not) we arrive at St. George's Castle (Castelo de São Jorge). Some parts of this castle date from the 6th century and were originally fortified by Romans. Later it served as a Moorish palace until it was captured by Portugal's first king, Afonso Henriques in 1147. In the earthquake of 1755, the castle fared quite well only sustaining minor damage so much of the original edifice is still there.From the crenellated walls you can see the entire ancient city and even make out the Santa Justa Elevator to the west. The original Roman influence is still apparent inside the castle with grand arches hinting at aqueducts.

Walking northeast, we continue to the Feira da Ladra which translates to "Theives Market" and it is essentially Lisbon's flea market with all sorts of items being bought and sold. The sellers here are excellent bargainers so be sure to never take the original asking price! For anyone looking for a neat souvenir, this is the place to go and even if you are not looking to buy, it is worth the walk to check it out.

Looks like it should be a church

After checking out the Feira da Ladra, heading down the hill toward the water, there is a massive white dome which is the National Pantheon. This is a monument to famous Portuguese such as Vasco da Gama (although his body is not there, we'll get to that later). While serving to honor the (famous) dead, this building is also a nice way to cool off in the summer heat as its stone construction and high dome makes for excellent insulation.

Spikes: Artistic or Defensive?

After visiting the National Pantheon, we stroll back towards the Baixa district and encounter one of the most interesting private houses in all of Lisbon, the Casa dos Bicos which means "House of Spikes." It was once a 16th century palace and it has over 1000 spikes adorning its front. Unfortunately, the interior is not open to the public.

Continuing back through Baixa (and possibly up the Santa Justa Elevator), we come to our next district in Old Lisbon.

Bairro Alto & Chiado

A restaurant in Bairro Alto

Bairro Alto has been called the cultural heart of Lisbon and this Bohemian neighborhood dates to the 16th century. It is full of Fado houses, restaurants, shops and bars and it is the location of some of Lisbon's best night life. In 2005, it was rated as the ninth most prestigious areas in the world behind places like 5th Avenue, New York and Champs Elysees in Paris.

Carmo Church

One of the most interesting places in all of Lisbon is the ruins of the Carmo Convent and Church. To get a feel for the full power of the Great Lisbon Earthquake, this archeological site is a gateway to the past. The congregation was here in mass when the magnitude 9.0 earthquake struck. The roof of the church caved in and is now gone and much of the interior is in shambles, but the visitors can still imagine what this Gothic church must have looked like before the disaster.

Also in Bairro Alto, is the Sao Roque Church which boasts one of the plainest exteriors and most magnificent interiors. Built in the 18th century it is a superb example of Baroque style. Inside there is artwork made of gold, silver, ivory, and lapis lazuli. There are even extremely detailed mosaics which initially appear to be paintings, but look close and you'll see the tiny pieces.

After a quick stop Bairro Alto & Chiado, we take the 15 tram out to our final area in Lisbon.

Belem

The Belem district contains some of the grandest monuments and buildings in all of Lisbon. Belem has grand parks and gardens as well as a mixture of modern and Renaissance buildings which blend the past and present.

Interior of the Jeronimos Monastery

Jeronimos Monastery

After stepping off the 15 tram, visitors are immediately drawn to the Jeronimos Monastery. A World Heritage site, this excellent example of the wealth and power exhibited by the Portuguese empire at its height during the Age of Discovery. Built in 1502 to commemorate Vasco da Gama's successful voyage, it was initially inhabited by monks of the Order of Saint Jerome. Inside the monastery, rests the body of Vasco da Gama (I told you we'd get there). The monastery is by far one of the most amazing buildings in Lisbon and the interior matches in the exterior in detail.

Belem Tower

Also in Belem is the Belem Tower, a Renaissance era guard tower for the port. Built in 1515, its architect had previously designed defenses in Morocco so the towers are in the Moorish style. The tower is also decorated in a nautical theme with ropes and anchors serving as artistic touches.


Look for this bakery, you won't regret it

Perhaps the best part of Belem is the Antiga Confeitaria de Belem. This bakery has been making the special custard tarts, pasteis de Belem, since 1841. The recipe is known only to three monks who guard the secret closely. As one local said, "when one dies, it is like electing a pope." These pastries are reason enough alone to make the trip to Belem. The bakery usually has a long line of tourists and locals alike ordering these delectable treats.

These are just some of the sites that Lisbon has to offer, there are many, many more that are well worth exploring. This brief trip can easily be completed in two days and merely hits a few of the highlights. Here are a few more pictures of Lisbon to play us out.